We are now in the last 2 weeks of 'The trip'! Our flight is booked from Guatemula City May 2, overnighting in Las Vegas and arriving in Seattle on May 3.

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FINAL THOUGHTS ON CR:

'Green' Costa Rica??? Not likely. Eco focus appears as lip service with government propaganda: brochures, advertising, signs and banners all over the country touting 'Costa Rica 100% Natural' and 'Pura Vida' (Pure Life). One thinks if the money spent on marketing actually WAS applied to environmental issues, CR indeed would be 'green'!

Note: The pineapples and other common crops are reportedly the most heavily pesticide sprayed in all of Central America; a frequent sight is farm workers carrying pecticide containers on their backs, with no protection from the spray; recycling is scarce, and to all appearances minimal air quality control... eg belching bus and truck fumes.

In our view, CR cannot compete with Panama or Nicarauga in terms of price, value, friendliness, culture and transportation. Our two favorite countries won't be too secret for too much longer, and soon we will be saying 'I remember back in 2011 when I was in ......before it became a major destination'!!!

Once again, as soon as we are through the border it is very obvious this is an entirely new country! '

**** Nicaruagua ****

First impressions of Nica:

As soon as we cross the border, to the right (east) of the highway: Lago Nicarauga with it's TWO imposing (volcanic) mountains on Isla Ometepe! Now, you need to know this is the stunning cover photo on our Lonely Planet book!

Immediatly to our Left: two oxen pulling a wooden cart, with wooden wheels, carrying a load of wood with 2 hombres steering the whole rig. One is chatting on his cell phone while 'driving'! (not 'hands free' and would he be fined in Canada/USA?)

This is our first 5 minutes in Nica: Jeez. a little dramatic, don't you think? So, we are impressed already.

In one hour we are in dyanmic, chaotic Rivas, immediately choose one (and ONLY one) taxi driver out of the masses for the 15 min.ride to take the San Jorge ferry across enormous (8,600 sq Km) Lago Nicaruaga for Isla de Ometepe - we have to keep reminding ourselves this is a fresh water lake, NOT ocean. It is that vast.

An hour boat trip, and Da Da! We and the wheely beasts lunge off the ferry and are greeted by a few determined taxi drivers and hotel/hostel owners trying to fill their cabs or beds. We say 'no, gracies nosotros reservation' (sort of no, thanks we have a reservation), and 'no taxi, need a bus'. So we are efficiently guided a few blocks to a chicken bus, packed and and ready to leave. We flash back to Panama. The busker cheerfully grabs our 50 lb wheely's and tosses them in the back of the old orange ex-school bus. We are the last ones to board, the music is rocking, engine reving, horn blaring and as our feet leave the pavement the busker (still at the back of the bus and outta sight behind 60 sweaty bodies) lets out a shrill whistle. This is the Nica bus system, you simply CANNOT be a busker (bus assistant) unless you have a real good, strong and loud whistle.

So off we go. I am graciously given a seat, and as people disembark Jim is waved and whistled at until he finally notices there is space for him too! Now is the moment I will always remember: busker whistles 'we have a passanger to pick up' whistle. We screech to a stop and a nicely made-up and dressed 20-something woman boards, hand bag slung over one shoulder and CUDDLED UNDER HER LEFT ARM IS A BEAUTIFUL CHICKEN! She smiles, people greet her and no-one but me is totally amazed. Too bad Jim is buried in the back, and can't see! There has been all sorts of livestock secured to the top of busses, or in bags or boxes on the bus, but never this (chicken) courtesy! This IS a real chicken bus :)!

Ometepe is not well visited, travellers just don't bother going. If you do, this is what ya'll get:

- Twin volcanoes, with some challenging trails

- Fertile volcanic soil, paridise if you love 'things that grow'

- Archaeological sites

- Beautiful 'youth and rejuvination' mineral springs.. Note: We turned 10 years back on the biological clock, but lost it on the next bus ride.

- Monkey's, lizards, snakes,and birds, birds birds.

Accommodation is at Reserva Charco Verde (Nature Reserve). We are on the lake, have a nice, quiet, vaulted ceiling, air con cabin with veranda containing 2 comfy wooden chairs, table and a hammock for $41/night. We stay, like sloths,for 5 days! Town is a 45 minute bus ride and our trip for groceries and supplies has a dismal outcome. The one panerea (bakery) is closed for some reason and the super-meracado is 20% the size of an average 7-11 with slim pickings. But there is no problem finding a cell phone SIM! Ah well we are forced to eat at the on resort outdoor restaurant where we spend hours meeting and visiting with nice and interesting people.

Right at our door: An early morning hike around the reserve: we stay alert to snakey things (Susan and husband, skilled auzzie snake spotters reported seeing 3 on one outing), around the lagoon, along the lake, up and down a few hills. Howler Monkey (aka Congo) heaven. We see about 30, including 2 moms with sweet little babes!

Laundry day: 'have to do it' so to the lagoon we go, with our biodegradable soap. As we immerse ourselves we discuss the possibility of crocs. humm.

Auzzies: Dave and Rita, and Conner and us chip in for a day trip around the island:

- La Presa Ojo de Agua - Natural (22 - 28 degree C.) mineral pools bubbling from 35 small underground springs. Lovely, shaded, clean and greenish retreat, and we are ever so 'rejuvenated'!

- Altagracia Church (ancient site, they are raising funds for restoration, at .50 admission could take awhile!), has 3 ancient statues on display.

- We circumvent Volcan Concepcion. We decide we will not do the 10 - 12 hour hike up the barren, shadeless heap of black volcanic pebble/sand to the summit in the 'hot, dry season' with temperatures of 92 - 100 degree F. Sherry: 'just because my foot isn't quite up to par' and Jim: 'just because'!!

The 5 of us have a lot to talk about. Dave and Rita have Mystic Rock Resort under construction on the Pacific Coast, West of Rivas a few hours by chicken bus in the town of Las Salinas. This area has some of the best surfing on the coast. We have an invitation to visit - and Why Not?!!! Next story:

Wed April 13:

Back to Rivas and 'Central Bus station' at the town market. Chaos! Action! Noise! Smells! We wish we weren't encumbered with Wheely Beasts, would love a few hours to wander. Something is happening everywhere: a horse-pulled gypsy wagon lumbers by; a makeshift stage with 3 beauties swaying to rock music as the announcer introduces (something) to follow; anything and everything 'for sale'; barbeques smoking; busses honking and bellowing; buskers yelling; Taxi drivers, one after another: 'taxi, taxi, taxi' and us 'no gracies, no gracies' then after #25 ready to say 'NOOOOOOO and use some ^%&$%^&# language! Prostitution is legal in most CA countries, including Nica and Conner told us Rivas prostitutes are available for as little as $10. The construction crew he works with can't understand why he declines their invitation to go with them!

More Bus Angels help - 2 burly hombres get the Beasts on their shoulders and rush us to (another) chicken bus already leaving. The Beasts are tossed on top. This time, we are crowded and standing, pushed so close to the driver that when he shifts gears I'm in the way! Jim says the heavy, huge silver air horn is to hold the hood on. The signs surrounding the driver reassuringly report 'Jesus is My Guide'. Posters of Jesus and Mary watch over us in a benevolent manner. A youngster (busker trainee?) sits on the dash, the busker continues to squeeze people on and off the bus; I comment to Jim, as I peek ahead 'wow this is a nice paved road'. Silly me. In 10 minutes we are in 3 inches of dust, rockin' and rollin' thru pot holes again!

The horn is very useful: Encourages stubborn Brahma cows off the road, and alerts potential human passengers of our immenent arrival.

I grab a vacated seat. My seat mate, a woman, has been staring at me, so I smile and say 'hola'. She continues to stare unrelentingly the entire trip! I look at her several times, trying to engage her, but there was no change of her observation. I wonder what she was thinking? ah, better to not know!

As we bounce along, Jim yells 'there's Dave'! We have to get off!' So, the bus leaves us in the (almost) middle of nowhere, and I am muttering 'are you SURE? If it isn't Dave or the right place, what are we going to do?' Turns out it IS Dave putting fresh paint on the highway sign, waiting for us!

Las Salinas means The Salts - and yep there is a large salt field being actively mined.

Mystic Rock Resort - Truly absolutely gorgeous. Stunningly beautiful. The project consists of a 3 storey lodge perched on a rocky cliff, right above Mystic Rock, and a separate 'hostel' that will sleep 4 surfers to a room.

Now, back to the Lodge (listen carefully to this!) The Penthouse has an open design, hardwood floors and huge windows opening on all 3 sides, and will be rented out for yoga retreats. It has 2 bedrooms and ours had huge windows open on two sides, overlooking the ocean and beach. Blissful. The second floor will be a restaurant and the lower a surfer lounge and hangout. ALL levels are built with open 90 degree views!

We totally enjoyed Dave and Rita's hospitality, their sharing of the local area, and meeting the construction crew - actually Wednesday afternoon is Baseball time, where the crew gets time off to have fun, we watched some of the game and said: Good For Them for running in the 90+ degree temperatures!

Nica minimum wage is .80 per hour, so labour is truly 'cheap'; however, a young local man told us alot and reports that basic needs (in this area) are being met. Salt is mined 4 months/year in the dry season workers can earn up to $7 USD/day. Normal workday is 7 am - 1 pm = $4 and afternoon shift 3 - 7 pm = $3. Locals grow rice and beans in the wet season, in rice paddies at low elevation and beans on the hillsides (for drainage), and chickens and pigs provide meat. Money earned provides for transportation, 'extras' and material goods.

Wednesday afternoon just before dinner, Jim and I go to the beach. I watch Jim swim out - way beyond my very limited and cowardly swimming abilities. Looking at the water and waves, I wisely decide against going in above my ankles. I splash a little, wander the beach and enjoy the sun setting. I look for Jim. I do not see Jim. I start to worry, then remind myself he is the Ulimate 70's California Surfer Dude and knows how to swim like an eel.

Turns out he got caught in a rip current. To make his story short, it carried him towards Mystic Rock, tossed him against a few rocks (could have been much worse), and without his swimming skills and memory of how to manage rip currents this would have been tragic. I certainly would not have made it out and back. Jim did, and we are very grateful this story ends well.

Goodbye to Dave and Rita, and Mystic Rock Resort!

HELLO TO HISTORICAL, EXOTIC, SEDATE GRANADA!

April 18 - 26 is Semana Santa (the week of Easter)

Central America is on vacation mode. Processions, Celebrations, Ritual, Music. Hotel and Transporation are now a challenge. We need to be wily and creative!

We don't get our first choice Hotel Con Corazon (a nonprofit hotel with all proceeds to schools and small business ventures. Slogan: 'Enjoy Today, Care for Tomorrow', but do luck out with big swimming pool (sigh), air con, but expensive at $69/night.

Of course we did the classic horse drawn carriage tour from Central Park, past churches, the malecon, military prison and forts. Totally picked the right time of day, towards dusk and sunset. The $15 is a bargain! The driver tells us his story about imprisonment in 1976. Once again I wish I was fluent in Espanol.

Monday April 18 we have an all day boat tour with dual focus:

1. Easter Boat Procession

Lead boat with a life sized figure of Jesus and the cross heading the bow; Priests and Bishop; 3 musicians playing drum, horn, etc,; and assorted people travel from island to island stopping at shrines set up by the residents. When the boats are travelling between islands the sober music plays, but stops when reaches the next shrine. Each shrine has an offering of fruit and flowers, and the devout wait for the arrival, to recieve prayers and blessings. The whole procession takes about 3 hours between 15 or so islands. The flowers are added to Jesus and the cross from each shrine. The procession has both medium and (very) small boats of all descriptions including canoes, and decorated with palm fonds and flowers.

2. Through some of Las Isletas, a miniature archipelago with a total of 365 islands. Way off in the distance we can see the volcanos on Ometepe, a 4 hour ferry trip (think twice before doing it though) from Granada, as well as Volcan Mombacho (Granada's personal volcano!). Many of these tiny islands are unoffical (no property rights) home to impovished families. Others have mansions owned by elete Nica's, including former president Chamorro and expats. 'Our' island, owned by a French couple (they also own the tour company we booked with) is a small piece of paradise. We have lunch, swim, and take a row boat out on the lake. Sherry finds rowing effortless. Jim gets tired ;)...guess who is rowing and who is NOT!!

They tell us about a family they employ as grounds keepers, cooks, and security guards. The family consists of 7 smaller family units for a total of 40 people. They live on a tiny island and this last rainy season, with higher than normal water levels, were flooded and forced to leave for 3 months. The local school provided temporary shelter. Children recieve very little education, and what they do get is of poor quality and limited. If they DO attend school they have barriers to success because they can't do their homework as the adults are illiterate and unable to help. The children are eager learners and appreciate the stimuli of education. Children seldome have toys, books, pens/pencils or crayons so supplies and learning aides are a total joy for them.

There you go. Different world, is it not?

To finish off: think of Granda as being laid back, with an elegant vibe, friendly and pretty. Street scene and Central Park: sizzling food vendors, nice little outdoor bars and restaurants, street entertainers (including a kick-a__ break dance group), begging children and women motioning for food or asking for money. We get different stories: a) the level of poverty is not that bad, begging is a choice and b) just outside of the historical area is serious poverty. Given that Nicaruagua is the 2nd poorest country (next to Haiti) in the Western Hemisphere this likely has an element of truth.

LEON: arrived here Tuesdau afternoon to take in some intense Semana Santa Leonese activities, including Friday's Barrio Subtiava's colorful sawdust carpets (started early morning so we will head there about 5 pm for the visual action 6 pm onward). These are temporary and beautiful images that the funeral procession for Jesus walks over.

We didn't even think about Nicaraugan's on vacation actually travel to their destinations (duh) so it was a terrible shock when we were told the first long distance bus ticket with Tica Bus Line's was April 27! After some heavy (literally and figuratively speaking) sweating we finally found bus tickets yesterday, We leave Saturday April 21 for an all day trip to San Salvador arriving sometime that night (we just discussed and only know the time we leave here! I think between 9 and midnight).

The next two weeks will be 'hard core', we need to go from slow sloth-like moves to relentless panther stalking. We have to crank through serious miles in a very limited time from Nicarauga, through Hondouras, El Salador, and finally Guatamela.

Food is an issue, and more so since booking our flight home. I am now having produce fantasies. Woke up this morning moaning 'I CAN'T eat huevos, fritos, arrzol AGAIN! This is no joke our diet is basically: eggs, white bread, beans, rice, chicken, french fries and some fruit (mango, banana, papaya), Macui (national drink is the healthiest part of our diet and about to become Port ludlow's most popular drink!) If you want to know what it is, or 'the recipe' just ASK!!!

That's all for this update! Muchas Gracies for following the blog, and MUCHAS GRACIES and Amor, for your emails and comments :) We love to hear from you!