We are now in the last 2 weeks of 'The trip'! Our flight is booked from Guatemula City May 2, overnighting in Las Vegas and arriving in Seattle on May 3.
****************************************************
FINAL THOUGHTS ON CR:
'Green' Costa Rica??? Not likely. Eco focus appears as lip service with government propaganda: brochures, advertising, signs and banners all over the country touting 'Costa Rica 100% Natural' and 'Pura Vida' (Pure Life). One thinks if the money spent on marketing actually WAS applied to environmental issues, CR indeed would be 'green'!
Note: The pineapples and other common crops are reportedly the most heavily pesticide sprayed in all of Central America; a frequent sight is farm workers carrying pecticide containers on their backs, with no protection from the spray; recycling is scarce, and to all appearances minimal air quality control... eg belching bus and truck fumes.
In our view, CR cannot compete with Panama or Nicarauga in terms of price, value, friendliness, culture and transportation. Our two favorite countries won't be too secret for too much longer, and soon we will be saying 'I remember back in 2011 when I was in ......before it became a major destination'!!!
Once again, as soon as we are through the border it is very obvious this is an entirely new country! '
**** Nicaruagua ****
First impressions of Nica:
As soon as we cross the border, to the right (east) of the highway: Lago Nicarauga with it's TWO imposing (volcanic) mountains on Isla Ometepe! Now, you need to know this is the stunning cover photo on our Lonely Planet book!
Immediatly to our Left: two oxen pulling a wooden cart, with wooden wheels, carrying a load of wood with 2 hombres steering the whole rig. One is chatting on his cell phone while 'driving'! (not 'hands free' and would he be fined in Canada/USA?)
This is our first 5 minutes in Nica: Jeez. a little dramatic, don't you think? So, we are impressed already.
In one hour we are in dyanmic, chaotic Rivas, immediately choose one (and ONLY one) taxi driver out of the masses for the 15 min.ride to take the San Jorge ferry across enormous (8,600 sq Km) Lago Nicaruaga for Isla de Ometepe - we have to keep reminding ourselves this is a fresh water lake, NOT ocean. It is that vast.
An hour boat trip, and Da Da! We and the wheely beasts lunge off the ferry and are greeted by a few determined taxi drivers and hotel/hostel owners trying to fill their cabs or beds. We say 'no, gracies nosotros reservation' (sort of no, thanks we have a reservation), and 'no taxi, need a bus'. So we are efficiently guided a few blocks to a chicken bus, packed and and ready to leave. We flash back to Panama. The busker cheerfully grabs our 50 lb wheely's and tosses them in the back of the old orange ex-school bus. We are the last ones to board, the music is rocking, engine reving, horn blaring and as our feet leave the pavement the busker (still at the back of the bus and outta sight behind 60 sweaty bodies) lets out a shrill whistle. This is the Nica bus system, you simply CANNOT be a busker (bus assistant) unless you have a real good, strong and loud whistle.
So off we go. I am graciously given a seat, and as people disembark Jim is waved and whistled at until he finally notices there is space for him too! Now is the moment I will always remember: busker whistles 'we have a passanger to pick up' whistle. We screech to a stop and a nicely made-up and dressed 20-something woman boards, hand bag slung over one shoulder and CUDDLED UNDER HER LEFT ARM IS A BEAUTIFUL CHICKEN! She smiles, people greet her and no-one but me is totally amazed. Too bad Jim is buried in the back, and can't see! There has been all sorts of livestock secured to the top of busses, or in bags or boxes on the bus, but never this (chicken) courtesy! This IS a real chicken bus :)!
Ometepe is not well visited, travellers just don't bother going. If you do, this is what ya'll get:
- Twin volcanoes, with some challenging trails
- Fertile volcanic soil, paridise if you love 'things that grow'
- Archaeological sites
- Beautiful 'youth and rejuvination' mineral springs.. Note: We turned 10 years back on the biological clock, but lost it on the next bus ride.
- Monkey's, lizards, snakes,and birds, birds birds.
Accommodation is at Reserva Charco Verde (Nature Reserve). We are on the lake, have a nice, quiet, vaulted ceiling, air con cabin with veranda containing 2 comfy wooden chairs, table and a hammock for $41/night. We stay, like sloths,for 5 days! Town is a 45 minute bus ride and our trip for groceries and supplies has a dismal outcome. The one panerea (bakery) is closed for some reason and the super-meracado is 20% the size of an average 7-11 with slim pickings. But there is no problem finding a cell phone SIM! Ah well we are forced to eat at the on resort outdoor restaurant where we spend hours meeting and visiting with nice and interesting people.
Right at our door: An early morning hike around the reserve: we stay alert to snakey things (Susan and husband, skilled auzzie snake spotters reported seeing 3 on one outing), around the lagoon, along the lake, up and down a few hills. Howler Monkey (aka Congo) heaven. We see about 30, including 2 moms with sweet little babes!
Laundry day: 'have to do it' so to the lagoon we go, with our biodegradable soap. As we immerse ourselves we discuss the possibility of crocs. humm.
Auzzies: Dave and Rita, and Conner and us chip in for a day trip around the island:
- La Presa Ojo de Agua - Natural (22 - 28 degree C.) mineral pools bubbling from 35 small underground springs. Lovely, shaded, clean and greenish retreat, and we are ever so 'rejuvenated'!
- Altagracia Church (ancient site, they are raising funds for restoration, at .50 admission could take awhile!), has 3 ancient statues on display.
- We circumvent Volcan Concepcion. We decide we will not do the 10 - 12 hour hike up the barren, shadeless heap of black volcanic pebble/sand to the summit in the 'hot, dry season' with temperatures of 92 - 100 degree F. Sherry: 'just because my foot isn't quite up to par' and Jim: 'just because'!!
The 5 of us have a lot to talk about. Dave and Rita have Mystic Rock Resort under construction on the Pacific Coast, West of Rivas a few hours by chicken bus in the town of Las Salinas. This area has some of the best surfing on the coast. We have an invitation to visit - and Why Not?!!! Next story:
Wed April 13:
Back to Rivas and 'Central Bus station' at the town market. Chaos! Action! Noise! Smells! We wish we weren't encumbered with Wheely Beasts, would love a few hours to wander. Something is happening everywhere: a horse-pulled gypsy wagon lumbers by; a makeshift stage with 3 beauties swaying to rock music as the announcer introduces (something) to follow; anything and everything 'for sale'; barbeques smoking; busses honking and bellowing; buskers yelling; Taxi drivers, one after another: 'taxi, taxi, taxi' and us 'no gracies, no gracies' then after #25 ready to say 'NOOOOOOO and use some ^%&$%^&# language! Prostitution is legal in most CA countries, including Nica and Conner told us Rivas prostitutes are available for as little as $10. The construction crew he works with can't understand why he declines their invitation to go with them!
More Bus Angels help - 2 burly hombres get the Beasts on their shoulders and rush us to (another) chicken bus already leaving. The Beasts are tossed on top. This time, we are crowded and standing, pushed so close to the driver that when he shifts gears I'm in the way! Jim says the heavy, huge silver air horn is to hold the hood on. The signs surrounding the driver reassuringly report 'Jesus is My Guide'. Posters of Jesus and Mary watch over us in a benevolent manner. A youngster (busker trainee?) sits on the dash, the busker continues to squeeze people on and off the bus; I comment to Jim, as I peek ahead 'wow this is a nice paved road'. Silly me. In 10 minutes we are in 3 inches of dust, rockin' and rollin' thru pot holes again!
The horn is very useful: Encourages stubborn Brahma cows off the road, and alerts potential human passengers of our immenent arrival.
I grab a vacated seat. My seat mate, a woman, has been staring at me, so I smile and say 'hola'. She continues to stare unrelentingly the entire trip! I look at her several times, trying to engage her, but there was no change of her observation. I wonder what she was thinking? ah, better to not know!
As we bounce along, Jim yells 'there's Dave'! We have to get off!' So, the bus leaves us in the (almost) middle of nowhere, and I am muttering 'are you SURE? If it isn't Dave or the right place, what are we going to do?' Turns out it IS Dave putting fresh paint on the highway sign, waiting for us!
Las Salinas means The Salts - and yep there is a large salt field being actively mined.
Mystic Rock Resort - Truly absolutely gorgeous. Stunningly beautiful. The project consists of a 3 storey lodge perched on a rocky cliff, right above Mystic Rock, and a separate 'hostel' that will sleep 4 surfers to a room.
Now, back to the Lodge (listen carefully to this!) The Penthouse has an open design, hardwood floors and huge windows opening on all 3 sides, and will be rented out for yoga retreats. It has 2 bedrooms and ours had huge windows open on two sides, overlooking the ocean and beach. Blissful. The second floor will be a restaurant and the lower a surfer lounge and hangout. ALL levels are built with open 90 degree views!
We totally enjoyed Dave and Rita's hospitality, their sharing of the local area, and meeting the construction crew - actually Wednesday afternoon is Baseball time, where the crew gets time off to have fun, we watched some of the game and said: Good For Them for running in the 90+ degree temperatures!
Nica minimum wage is .80 per hour, so labour is truly 'cheap'; however, a young local man told us alot and reports that basic needs (in this area) are being met. Salt is mined 4 months/year in the dry season workers can earn up to $7 USD/day. Normal workday is 7 am - 1 pm = $4 and afternoon shift 3 - 7 pm = $3. Locals grow rice and beans in the wet season, in rice paddies at low elevation and beans on the hillsides (for drainage), and chickens and pigs provide meat. Money earned provides for transportation, 'extras' and material goods.
Wednesday afternoon just before dinner, Jim and I go to the beach. I watch Jim swim out - way beyond my very limited and cowardly swimming abilities. Looking at the water and waves, I wisely decide against going in above my ankles. I splash a little, wander the beach and enjoy the sun setting. I look for Jim. I do not see Jim. I start to worry, then remind myself he is the Ulimate 70's California Surfer Dude and knows how to swim like an eel.
Turns out he got caught in a rip current. To make his story short, it carried him towards Mystic Rock, tossed him against a few rocks (could have been much worse), and without his swimming skills and memory of how to manage rip currents this would have been tragic. I certainly would not have made it out and back. Jim did, and we are very grateful this story ends well.
Goodbye to Dave and Rita, and Mystic Rock Resort!
HELLO TO HISTORICAL, EXOTIC, SEDATE GRANADA!
April 18 - 26 is Semana Santa (the week of Easter)
Central America is on vacation mode. Processions, Celebrations, Ritual, Music. Hotel and Transporation are now a challenge. We need to be wily and creative!
We don't get our first choice Hotel Con Corazon (a nonprofit hotel with all proceeds to schools and small business ventures. Slogan: 'Enjoy Today, Care for Tomorrow', but do luck out with big swimming pool (sigh), air con, but expensive at $69/night.
Of course we did the classic horse drawn carriage tour from Central Park, past churches, the malecon, military prison and forts. Totally picked the right time of day, towards dusk and sunset. The $15 is a bargain! The driver tells us his story about imprisonment in 1976. Once again I wish I was fluent in Espanol.
Monday April 18 we have an all day boat tour with dual focus:
1. Easter Boat Procession
Lead boat with a life sized figure of Jesus and the cross heading the bow; Priests and Bishop; 3 musicians playing drum, horn, etc,; and assorted people travel from island to island stopping at shrines set up by the residents. When the boats are travelling between islands the sober music plays, but stops when reaches the next shrine. Each shrine has an offering of fruit and flowers, and the devout wait for the arrival, to recieve prayers and blessings. The whole procession takes about 3 hours between 15 or so islands. The flowers are added to Jesus and the cross from each shrine. The procession has both medium and (very) small boats of all descriptions including canoes, and decorated with palm fonds and flowers.
2. Through some of Las Isletas, a miniature archipelago with a total of 365 islands. Way off in the distance we can see the volcanos on Ometepe, a 4 hour ferry trip (think twice before doing it though) from Granada, as well as Volcan Mombacho (Granada's personal volcano!). Many of these tiny islands are unoffical (no property rights) home to impovished families. Others have mansions owned by elete Nica's, including former president Chamorro and expats. 'Our' island, owned by a French couple (they also own the tour company we booked with) is a small piece of paradise. We have lunch, swim, and take a row boat out on the lake. Sherry finds rowing effortless. Jim gets tired ;)...guess who is rowing and who is NOT!!
They tell us about a family they employ as grounds keepers, cooks, and security guards. The family consists of 7 smaller family units for a total of 40 people. They live on a tiny island and this last rainy season, with higher than normal water levels, were flooded and forced to leave for 3 months. The local school provided temporary shelter. Children recieve very little education, and what they do get is of poor quality and limited. If they DO attend school they have barriers to success because they can't do their homework as the adults are illiterate and unable to help. The children are eager learners and appreciate the stimuli of education. Children seldome have toys, books, pens/pencils or crayons so supplies and learning aides are a total joy for them.
There you go. Different world, is it not?
To finish off: think of Granda as being laid back, with an elegant vibe, friendly and pretty. Street scene and Central Park: sizzling food vendors, nice little outdoor bars and restaurants, street entertainers (including a kick-a__ break dance group), begging children and women motioning for food or asking for money. We get different stories: a) the level of poverty is not that bad, begging is a choice and b) just outside of the historical area is serious poverty. Given that Nicaruagua is the 2nd poorest country (next to Haiti) in the Western Hemisphere this likely has an element of truth.
LEON: arrived here Tuesdau afternoon to take in some intense Semana Santa Leonese activities, including Friday's Barrio Subtiava's colorful sawdust carpets (started early morning so we will head there about 5 pm for the visual action 6 pm onward). These are temporary and beautiful images that the funeral procession for Jesus walks over.
We didn't even think about Nicaraugan's on vacation actually travel to their destinations (duh) so it was a terrible shock when we were told the first long distance bus ticket with Tica Bus Line's was April 27! After some heavy (literally and figuratively speaking) sweating we finally found bus tickets yesterday, We leave Saturday April 21 for an all day trip to San Salvador arriving sometime that night (we just discussed and only know the time we leave here! I think between 9 and midnight).
The next two weeks will be 'hard core', we need to go from slow sloth-like moves to relentless panther stalking. We have to crank through serious miles in a very limited time from Nicarauga, through Hondouras, El Salador, and finally Guatamela.
Food is an issue, and more so since booking our flight home. I am now having produce fantasies. Woke up this morning moaning 'I CAN'T eat huevos, fritos, arrzol AGAIN! This is no joke our diet is basically: eggs, white bread, beans, rice, chicken, french fries and some fruit (mango, banana, papaya), Macui (national drink is the healthiest part of our diet and about to become Port ludlow's most popular drink!) If you want to know what it is, or 'the recipe' just ASK!!!
That's all for this update! Muchas Gracies for following the blog, and MUCHAS GRACIES and Amor, for your emails and comments :) We love to hear from you!
still wanderin'
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Saturday, April 16, 2011
APRIL 2 - 16
2 – 6: SANTA ELENA AND MONTEVERDE, C.R.
Again: sea level to cloud forest, from sweating profusely and seeking refuge in the pool, to cringing when the wind blows, and cowering in thin nylon cycling jackets!
Bussing from Quepos up the West Coast to Puntarenas:
We struggle out of bed for an early bus… to meet an obnoxious, loud Italian gentleman waiting at the bus stop, chain smoking cigarettes and expressing his 10 disgruntled years in Costa Rica! His tirade worsens on the bus, which is filled with Costa Ricans starting their workday, in low wage jobs, 6 days/week, serving tourists and foreigners. He clearly and loudly expresses how ‘really bad the Costa Ricans are, a terrible people… can’t trust any of them…’ jeez - what a way to start the day!
The first 2 hours is a feast: beautiful ocean and surf, white sand beaches and lush vegetation by Jaco and Hermosa.
We say ‘this is gorgeous’ and ‘we had no idea’! Then.. we arrived in Puntarenas. Buildings run down and deserted, those inhabited appear dirty and neglected. The place has a very unappealing vibe, if not downright dangerous. Even at mid-day our intuition screams: get out of here and stay alert! Then the bus stops in the middle of the block, the driver indicates this is the end of the road. 6 of us travelers are somewhat taken aback. This is a major hub to move people in all directions, PANIC! Where is the bus station???? Actually we only have 2 blocks to walk, but once again the imagination does weird and wonderful things! So off we go dragging the wheelit beasts through dirt, sand and potholes.
Quepos – Santa Elena 4.5 hours with 2.5 hours at 15 kms/hour climbing up, up and more up, on a dusty, pot holed, narrow, and steep ‘road’. The scenery is superb, with rolling hills and mountains, flowering trees, palms, and pines. We are so far, in every way, from grungy Puntarenas it seems a surreal experience. In the middle of all these hills we cannot imagine finding any community, us 30 people on the bus will just stay suspended in time on this never ending slow road to nowhere!
Then da-dah-da! We are in a bustling community thinly spread over 10 kms, with a healthy population of independent hostel-dwelling travelers and a disturbing amount of the more affluent Air-con, 10 seater mini-bussers. Jealous? Maybe just a tad, as we try to get the ½ inch layer of dust off our Wheely Beasts, and out of our lungs, ears, and eyes! Never mind, after a good shower, dinner, a cold fruit shake/cervasas, 8 hours sleep we are almost as good as those soft whimps settled into 5 Star Inns and eco resorts!
We liked it – a lot, could be because of cooler temperatures that motivate us to move faster than sloth-speed. Tons to see and do, including
Two Cloud Forests: Reserva Santa Elena and Reserva Biologica Monteverde. We spend one day in Monteverde, and relish the first 2 hours of cool mist and rain – compliments of Cloud Forest! Gigantic ferns, palms, vines, many varieties of wild orchids and who knows what… can’t identify much of what we see, just ‘ooh and ah’, and focus the trusty Lumix (camera)trying to capture a portion of this lush mountain jungle. We see birds, Howlers aka Congos (monkeys), tarantula, centipede, but ignore the ‘attention-getting, prima dona’ Quetzels (WE’VE become rare-bird snobs after Panama, after all!). An example: one medium sized tree supports 40 varieties of orchids, several species of frogs who live their entire lives in the upper canopy, and multiple ferns and other flowers! Our “medium” size tree exceeds 100 feet in height.
· The Quaker Community: established in the 1940’s after the US incarcerated 4 members who said ‘screw u!’ to being drafted into the Korean war. We walked 5 kms to attend a Sunday morning meeting, and were warmly welcomed. Very impressive and we feel a bit more knowledgeable about the ‘Friends’.
· Coffee Plantations: Did a one on one tour and even met patriarch Don Juan himself, know more (as opposed to ‘nada) about …. Yep you guessed it! The COFFEE production process. I NOW KNOW how to take care of my coffee at home – keep it fresh for months – and not going to write my secret here. This is a trick – those who are reading our lengthy blog tirades word for word – and motivated to respond, will be the lucky people we share this simple but highly classified secret info with! Also, Jim got to experience for the first time the sweet taste of freshly cut sugar cane.MMMMMM
· Cheese Factory, established by the Quaker community – Jim loved it.Who would think standing and watching 10 people make cheese (work) for an hour and a half would be fun.
· An awesome art scene, yoga and meditation classes
· ‘Ecotourism’ focus and prices, and amazing attractions like:
· The Frog Pond – engaged sherry for 5 hours! ‘The Tour’ consisted of me and a small Illinois family Mom, Dad, ‘ever-bored, eye rolling, attitude saturated’ 16 yr old daughter, and 14 year old geekish son Sam, who loves anything that crawls, hops, bites, and skitters. Sam and I bonded quickly with the passionate frog lovin’ guide and our enthusiasm got us a 2.5 hour tour well beyond the 1 hour scheduled one. Guide said: ‘most people just want to take photos and leave asap’. As Jim has reminded me’a little bit of frog data goes a long, long ways’ so I will just say to you… anything you want to know about frogs I am happy to share with you – especially those exotic and very, very smart Poison Dart Frogs… do they ever know how to raise their babies…… then there is the Blue Jean Frog….oh! then one that leaps, and zig zags at same time..:)
· Bat Jungle (Jim) ..very interesting
· Butterfly Gardens (sherry)..even in a greenhouse I fail to capture the taunting, beautiful, gigantic, blue one on film.
LIBERIA AND PARQUE NATIONAL RINCON DELA VIEJA
Nothing much to say about Liberia as it’s primarily a transportation hub to grab a tour or bus to close by attractions, including 3 National Parks and many Pacific beaches. Hot – very hot. So hot we don’t even get into the pool but hide in the hotel with our best friend – the Air Conditioner. We choose Rincon National Park as our last CR excursion, which is a full day trip. We paid $20 each for return transportation.
Turns out to be a very good day, and the park is very different than all the parks we’ve explored to date. Rincon is a perfectly cone shaped, active volcano that has been expressing itself in unpredictable ways (almost) daily since a huge explosion in 1968.
We have a choice of 3 trails: 1) a hot, tough climb to the top of the crater (an all day venture), 2) an easy 6 km hike through bubbling cauldrons of mud and steaming streams and ponds; cactus; spiny, dried/petrified trees, and 3) a 5 km waterfall hike, difficulty and terrine unidentified.
We do Hike #2 and it takes us forever – ok truth be told 3 hours! The fascination of boiling mud and water, creatively formed trees and cactus, birds, Howler Monkeys, iguanas and lizards, and relentless heat and sun had us moving < 2 kms/hour.
Lunch break then we start Hike #3. Thirty minutes into it I am, for once, smart about my foot strength and ability, and bail out. Jim continues and reaches the waterfall but tells a tale of a ‘hike from hell’ 90% in blazing hot sun and a very steep up and down trail. I find a cool blue-green river off the main trail, with a nice secluded pond for swimming and big boulders perfect for lounging like a lizard, I MUST take care of myself afterallJ!
APRIL 9 *****NICARAGUA*****!!!
A 1.5 hour ‘special bus’ (we pay 3X the price of local chicken busses to get through the border from Liberia, CR to Rivas, Nicaragua!
Hot, dry, rolling hills and fincas is pretty much the scenery along the way.
Sapoa – Penas Blancas is the ONLY official border crossing from C.R. into Nicaragua. Note: The seasonal Nica workers don’t bother with passports or customs and just swim across the river that divides the 2 countries. Costa Rican’s prefer to work easier jobs, in offices or in tourism rather than the hard labor and low wages of farm work.
Most Costa Rican’s have a very low opinion of Nica’s, but the country depends on Nica labour to pick fruit, harvest coffee and veggies for $2 – $4/day. They are provided with basic accommodation resembling a cement cell block, often without shade. The whole family works, including toddlers and children who pick what they can reach.
The commercial truck line started about 10 kms before the border, at a dead stop. Many semi’s had 1 or 2 hammocks strung under the trailer, with drivers snoozing in the sweltering shade.
To clarify: The Transamerican HWY is NOT a freeway, but 1 lane each way with varying shoulder widths and steepness. So, picture this: the trucks are totally taking up our North bound lane. The oncoming traffic is still… oncoming. We need to pass the trucks for several kms, requiring us to drive into oncoming traffic. This means the bus driver has to a) judge how far he can go before heading for the left hand shoulder/ditch, b) identify if there will BE a shoulder/ditch that will take the bus and c) place said bus off the road just enough so the oncoming semi’s don’t remove one side of the bus, but not so much as to slide into the ditch… worse case scenario rolling bus and the cowardly travelers.
The stories about the crossing were not exaggerated, and we were lucky it only took 2 hours vs. 4 or 5 hours to bumble our way through a confusing mass of other hot and frustrated people, venders, scammers (with photocopied Customs forms they say we must buy for USD $1 to get through the border, however these are free at the customs counter!), semi’s, busses, and various unsigned or poorly signed buildings scattered hodge-podge around a very large area! And only new crisp twenty dollar bills are acceptable to Nicaraguan Customs Officers. We had to get out of line after a ½ hour wait and go find a bank in the 100 deg. heat, go back to the end of the line and start all over because our $20 was wrinkled (no good).
Once again, as soon as we are through the border it is very obvious this is an entirely new country!
Friday, April 1, 2011
MARCH 30 UPDATE
LOCATION: MANUAL ANTOINIO NAT’L PARK AND QUEPOS. COSTA RICA
DAVID FAIR
Note: Bunny Cows - they are generally very gentle and we were entranced with their affection, rubbing their heads and noses is like petting a dog - they bow their heads, push into your hand and appear to be in bliss. It is both thrillng and terrifying sitting between 2 2-ton bulls when both of them want attention. While I was fully focussed petting one, the other head-butted me in ... my butt - pushing me nearly head first into the hay! I cannot even remember HOW I got out of there - one giant leap and the great escape! We saw one make an escape, and wow seeing a 2 ton bull running through the crowd got everyone's attention. His owner managed to get him under control, but people definately scattered in every direction.
The Fair: Huge and goes for 10 days. We attended the rodeo, ate, visited lots of bunny cows, ate, looked at tons of exhibits, ate, attended an auction, didn't eat, visited the border patrol (Army we think)where we were given our own private history lesson and tour and after 8 hours sat down and listened to live music while drinking beer. Spent 10 hours there and went back the next day for a couple more hours. The fair goes to 3 AM, and at midnight the temperature is upper 70's with a light breeze and nobody was thinking about leaving yet. Outside the fair grounds are literally thousands of little food stands with mini casinos spaced in between.Never seen a craps tables, roulette or black jack tables outside in the open before. Thousands of people everywhere and not sure if we saw even 1 North American.
GUADALUPE, PANAMA
A one hour bus ride from David with a 40 deg. difference in temperature (need blankets at night). Beautiful 'ecolodge' and the first thing we encountered was about 50 humming birds of various sizes and colors drinking at the bird feeders around our veranda. They were literally buzzing around our heads as if we were somehow invisable.
The area is a cloud forest (we think its jungle minus some - not all of - the heat and humidity). The mountains are very steep and planted with onions, coffee, tomatoes and cabbage. The hillsides are sporatically dotted with small Swiss chalet-like structures. Our tour had 10 of us piled into a wagon, then pulled by a tractor up a steep boulder strewn riverbed. Very rough and bouncy. 1/2 hour later we did a 3 hour hike up the jungle mountain and .....spotted more of the rarely seen Quetzels.
Evenings in the Great Room of our lodge: playing dominoes, reading next to a blazing indoor fire, and playing table tennis. Found a great little restaurant just next door with delicious and cheap food. Dessert was at a roadside stand serving up fresh strawberries and (real) cream. It was so good we bought a homemade Strawberry Loaf - same as Banana Bread only strawberry - for the next day's bus trip to Costa Rica.
BORDER CROSSING PANAMA TO COSTA RICA
We take the road and border ‘less travelled’, with the merits of continuing through Panama’s mountains, rather than back tracking to David. We understand from The Lonely Planet and Moon this route is remote and rarely used by overseas travelers, stating ‘ensure BOTH Panama exit stamp and Costa Rica’s entry stamp is obtained…’ We soon find out how one may be missed!
1.5 gawking hours from Guadalupe to the Rio Sereno border crossing: rolling hills, winding narrow roads, mountains, ranchlands, remote and a stunningly beautiful drive. Rio Sereno, is a smallish town but we are compeletely disoriented - where is the border crossing? The bus stops - everyone disembarks, including us. Asked busker ‘donde es emigration, donde es Costa Rica? (duh) We were hussled back on the bus in 2 seconds flat, including wheely beasts and driven 3 kms – and our personal bus driver and busker deliver us to a stop sign marking the crossing. Offers of extra money are firmly refused with a wave and ‘good luck’.
Panama’s nicely paved road ends at said stop sign, and Costa Rica’s potted, rocky, dusty, and DESERTED back road stretches in front of us. Panama’s flag clearly indicates immigration, and the Customs Officer lounges in a solitary state of relaxation crooning along with a love ballad. Jim and our guy chuckle and hum in mutual appreciation of the 1970’s hit ‘I Will Always Love You’ together singing base rather than Tenor as both feel it’s meant to be. He needs a copy of our passport to keep for his records. He checks the length of our stay and we tell him we love Panama. He offers us an immediate renewal for an additional 90 Day visa. He repeats our names ‘James’ and ‘Sherry’, smiling and nodding his head at the shear joy of our presence! He tells Jim we have a 1 km walk to Costa Rica’s immigration office. Jim does NOT tell Sherry.
We start pulling 50+ lb wheelies over stones, big rocks, pot holes - twisting ankles and pulling arm sockets (Sherry’s) with no shade and in raging heat. The whining and complaining commences within 10 feet. Looking ahead we see a straight, deserted and dismal road with NO indication of Costa Rica whatsoever, only one small house to our right. Sherry starts looking for a taxi, a bus, a horse – anything that may give hope of rescue, the tough Canadian is desperate and has no pride. The American keeps his secret, rightly believing the best course of action is to refrain from upsetting partner Canadian more. We continue past the little house heading in the only direction there is.
Suddenly Jim hears ‘Senor, Senor …’ we turn and behind us, in front of the little house, is Costa Rica Customs waving us to come back, come back! Once again we are treated like celebrates, for certain we are an entertaining story for la espousa y ninos tonight! Our passports are stamped with firm approval and a smile of welcome, and a large boquet of bright pink flowers placed on the desk for a photo shoot! There are NO other travelers, cars, trucks, or livestock our entire time here. With handshakes, smiles, pats on our backs and ‘good luck, be safe, God go With You’ A very unique border and a unforgettable, fun experience for us. We need to stay tough for Canada and US Customs…’ don’t forget procedures, laws, restrictions, don’t smile, laugh or hug your Customs Officer (just Imagine!!!!)
There is a bus after all, and we start to learn the difference between Panama and Costa Rica. We have been pampered and spoiled. Bus Driver tries to ignore us and our large bags. Bus Driver does not eagerly grab our Big Beasties for loading. Bus Driver does not ensure we get off at the right stop. Also, Costa Rican buses have NO air conditioning!! Jeez. We stay in San Vito, and the adjustment continues:
- Accommodation is 30% higher for 50% less
- Food is yummy but expensive – a Tipica Café (local Costa Rican food) lunch $7 each
- Costa Ricans want to help and are very polite. Unfortunatly this means they cannot tell you they don’t know, so are obligated to just tell you anything. 4 different inquires (Where is the Bus Stop for Neily?) with 4 different people in a very small town, equals 4 entirely different answers. We end up on a bus that takes us 10 kms from the border crossing we were at the day before and 1.5 hours vs 30 min. bus route
One day bus trip San Vito to Puerto Jimenez. Translate into ‘hellish trip’ for a fragile motion sick, C-spine weak traveler. The Bus from Hell not only has NO Air Con but hard plastic seats with zero lumbar support, no arm rests, and very few water/pee stops. Costa Rican's had sweat rolling down their faces just like us...there is some consulation that we are not the only ones suffering terribly! The road progressively worsened, becoming more narrow, pot-holed, gravel/dust, sharp corners…. Thoughts when we see a distant marker: We’ve only travelled 20 kms in 45 minutes??!!!
The bridges had everyone of us holding our breath- 2 are rusted out with holes clear to the river below. The busses and trucks crawl across, gently tippy-toeing.
note; our return trip from Osa is by 1-hour early morning water taxi. What a great decision THIS was.
Cabanas Jimenze - cool vibe, nice little pool, free kayaks and bikes... was fun to kayak, but is so hot our endurance is very poor and we fade fast and cower in the pool.
Before arriving we were told to get out of Puerto Jimanze asap as it was just a dusty hole of a town. We expected the worse, and were happily surprised. Parrots and Macaws hang out in town,butterflies, various other birds singing constantly, and the town itself is reasonabally affluent, meaning people are happy and proud.
Our day trip here with Will, personal guide: Sloths - one mom and babe; Red Poison Dart Frogs, Green/Black Poison Dart Frog, Jesus Christ Lizard (runs on water), Squirrel Monkeys (FYI the very cutest, sweet faced monkeys EVER), and Black Monkeys.
Grilled Tuna: Best ever prepared and cooked to perfection! The weather is extremely hot and our rooms a/c unit is on a 1 hour timer and all night long we have to reset it - every hour! No problem the heat and humidity wakes us within minutes of the a/c shutting down.
QUEPOS & MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK
We start our travel day from P.J. with water tax and all-day bus ride to Quepos. Same ol' story: Very hot and sweaty trip. In Quepos we discover our internet found condo is rented to someone else. We find solice in the nearest restaurant, order cold beer and find another internet shelter. Turns out perfect with a/c and pool which we are in (and remains our refuge throughout our time here) within minutes of arrival. Unfortunately this is a huge tourist destination and prices are terrible, a meal for 2 of us is $20-$30. Save in Panama - go into remorse and debt in Costa Rica! Our Shangri La IS nice so we bite the bullet and stay for 5 days.
We find Wacky Wanda's - a cafe/bar with Polish Chef who prepares wonderful meals, AND pleases us to no end when his stir fries veggies and makes us huge salads - special order! This is one place we get great food and (more) reasonable prices.So with a drink and dinner we get by for $35.
This is very much a typical ex-pat town, with heavy drinking in American/Canadian owned bars, which seems a universal trend, Mexico, South and Central America and South Sea Islands. Not sure if it's boredom or just the social atmosphere. We have tons of fun a couple of nights, especially at the Wednesday night party at Dos Locos Restaurant and Bar, the band which includes a Women Studies Prof from University of Toronto plays a mean base and the 'lead singer' rocks with his guitar playing and singing Santana, Pink Floyd, and others. We totally enjoy meeting some great people including Tug Boat Bobby from Cortez Island, and I find out his wife is a Sherry Freake, A NAME I KNOW FROM LIVING IN GOLDEN 25 YEARS AGO!!! Her home town is Golden! Fun, fun and more fun :).
It is our pleasure to meet a new friend at Manual Antonio, from California - Megan and spend some good hours together at the park, in the pool and out to dinner.... one of the best things about travelling, she expects to visit Vancouver in September!
We take the bus to Manual Antonio pay our $10 each and start our unguided trek through the steamiest damn jungle you can imagine.An hour and a half and 10 lbs. of sweat later we are overheated, tired and pissed because we haven't seen any monkeys etc.We give-in and say "the hell with it,let 'em find us" and sit down to try and find some relief from the heat.Within 10 min. believe it or not they do just that.Not only do they find us but we follow them and before long they lead us to the beach where there are now at least 40 monkeys playing tag napping or just plain running circles around us.From then on we spend the rest of the day mingling with monkeys,sloths,coatis and 1 huge iguana.We swim in the 70 deg. plus water and enjoy the lunch we wisely packed.Then its back to the hotel and the pool.
Tomorrow
April 2 we head for Santa Elena and another cloud forest.We're getting ready to enter Nicaragua within the next 5 days or so.
LOCATION: MANUAL ANTOINIO NAT’L PARK AND QUEPOS. COSTA RICA
DAVID FAIR
Note: Bunny Cows - they are generally very gentle and we were entranced with their affection, rubbing their heads and noses is like petting a dog - they bow their heads, push into your hand and appear to be in bliss. It is both thrillng and terrifying sitting between 2 2-ton bulls when both of them want attention. While I was fully focussed petting one, the other head-butted me in ... my butt - pushing me nearly head first into the hay! I cannot even remember HOW I got out of there - one giant leap and the great escape! We saw one make an escape, and wow seeing a 2 ton bull running through the crowd got everyone's attention. His owner managed to get him under control, but people definately scattered in every direction.
The Fair: Huge and goes for 10 days. We attended the rodeo, ate, visited lots of bunny cows, ate, looked at tons of exhibits, ate, attended an auction, didn't eat, visited the border patrol (Army we think)where we were given our own private history lesson and tour and after 8 hours sat down and listened to live music while drinking beer. Spent 10 hours there and went back the next day for a couple more hours. The fair goes to 3 AM, and at midnight the temperature is upper 70's with a light breeze and nobody was thinking about leaving yet. Outside the fair grounds are literally thousands of little food stands with mini casinos spaced in between.Never seen a craps tables, roulette or black jack tables outside in the open before. Thousands of people everywhere and not sure if we saw even 1 North American.
GUADALUPE, PANAMA
A one hour bus ride from David with a 40 deg. difference in temperature (need blankets at night). Beautiful 'ecolodge' and the first thing we encountered was about 50 humming birds of various sizes and colors drinking at the bird feeders around our veranda. They were literally buzzing around our heads as if we were somehow invisable.
The area is a cloud forest (we think its jungle minus some - not all of - the heat and humidity). The mountains are very steep and planted with onions, coffee, tomatoes and cabbage. The hillsides are sporatically dotted with small Swiss chalet-like structures. Our tour had 10 of us piled into a wagon, then pulled by a tractor up a steep boulder strewn riverbed. Very rough and bouncy. 1/2 hour later we did a 3 hour hike up the jungle mountain and .....spotted more of the rarely seen Quetzels.
Evenings in the Great Room of our lodge: playing dominoes, reading next to a blazing indoor fire, and playing table tennis. Found a great little restaurant just next door with delicious and cheap food. Dessert was at a roadside stand serving up fresh strawberries and (real) cream. It was so good we bought a homemade Strawberry Loaf - same as Banana Bread only strawberry - for the next day's bus trip to Costa Rica.
BORDER CROSSING PANAMA TO COSTA RICA
We take the road and border ‘less travelled’, with the merits of continuing through Panama’s mountains, rather than back tracking to David. We understand from The Lonely Planet and Moon this route is remote and rarely used by overseas travelers, stating ‘ensure BOTH Panama exit stamp and Costa Rica’s entry stamp is obtained…’ We soon find out how one may be missed!
1.5 gawking hours from Guadalupe to the Rio Sereno border crossing: rolling hills, winding narrow roads, mountains, ranchlands, remote and a stunningly beautiful drive. Rio Sereno, is a smallish town but we are compeletely disoriented - where is the border crossing? The bus stops - everyone disembarks, including us. Asked busker ‘donde es emigration, donde es Costa Rica? (duh) We were hussled back on the bus in 2 seconds flat, including wheely beasts and driven 3 kms – and our personal bus driver and busker deliver us to a stop sign marking the crossing. Offers of extra money are firmly refused with a wave and ‘good luck’.
Panama’s nicely paved road ends at said stop sign, and Costa Rica’s potted, rocky, dusty, and DESERTED back road stretches in front of us. Panama’s flag clearly indicates immigration, and the Customs Officer lounges in a solitary state of relaxation crooning along with a love ballad. Jim and our guy chuckle and hum in mutual appreciation of the 1970’s hit ‘I Will Always Love You’ together singing base rather than Tenor as both feel it’s meant to be. He needs a copy of our passport to keep for his records. He checks the length of our stay and we tell him we love Panama. He offers us an immediate renewal for an additional 90 Day visa. He repeats our names ‘James’ and ‘Sherry’, smiling and nodding his head at the shear joy of our presence! He tells Jim we have a 1 km walk to Costa Rica’s immigration office. Jim does NOT tell Sherry.
We start pulling 50+ lb wheelies over stones, big rocks, pot holes - twisting ankles and pulling arm sockets (Sherry’s) with no shade and in raging heat. The whining and complaining commences within 10 feet. Looking ahead we see a straight, deserted and dismal road with NO indication of Costa Rica whatsoever, only one small house to our right. Sherry starts looking for a taxi, a bus, a horse – anything that may give hope of rescue, the tough Canadian is desperate and has no pride. The American keeps his secret, rightly believing the best course of action is to refrain from upsetting partner Canadian more. We continue past the little house heading in the only direction there is.
Suddenly Jim hears ‘Senor, Senor …’ we turn and behind us, in front of the little house, is Costa Rica Customs waving us to come back, come back! Once again we are treated like celebrates, for certain we are an entertaining story for la espousa y ninos tonight! Our passports are stamped with firm approval and a smile of welcome, and a large boquet of bright pink flowers placed on the desk for a photo shoot! There are NO other travelers, cars, trucks, or livestock our entire time here. With handshakes, smiles, pats on our backs and ‘good luck, be safe, God go With You’ A very unique border and a unforgettable, fun experience for us. We need to stay tough for Canada and US Customs…’ don’t forget procedures, laws, restrictions, don’t smile, laugh or hug your Customs Officer (just Imagine!!!!)
There is a bus after all, and we start to learn the difference between Panama and Costa Rica. We have been pampered and spoiled. Bus Driver tries to ignore us and our large bags. Bus Driver does not eagerly grab our Big Beasties for loading. Bus Driver does not ensure we get off at the right stop. Also, Costa Rican buses have NO air conditioning!! Jeez. We stay in San Vito, and the adjustment continues:
- Food is yummy but expensive – a Tipica Café (local Costa Rican food) lunch $7 each
- Costa Ricans want to help and are very polite. Unfortunatly this means they cannot tell you they don’t know, so are obligated to just tell you anything. 4 different inquires (Where is the Bus Stop for Neily?) with 4 different people in a very small town, equals 4 entirely different answers. We end up on a bus that takes us 10 kms from the border crossing we were at the day before and 1.5 hours vs 30 min. bus route
One day bus trip San Vito to Puerto Jimenez. Translate into ‘hellish trip’ for a fragile motion sick, C-spine weak traveler. The Bus from Hell not only has NO Air Con but hard plastic seats with zero lumbar support, no arm rests, and very few water/pee stops. Costa Rican's had sweat rolling down their faces just like us...there is some consulation that we are not the only ones suffering terribly! The road progressively worsened, becoming more narrow, pot-holed, gravel/dust, sharp corners…. Thoughts when we see a distant marker: We’ve only travelled 20 kms in 45 minutes??!!!
The bridges had everyone of us holding our breath- 2 are rusted out with holes clear to the river below. The busses and trucks crawl across, gently tippy-toeing.
note; our return trip from Osa is by 1-hour early morning water taxi. What a great decision THIS was.
Cabanas Jimenze - cool vibe, nice little pool, free kayaks and bikes... was fun to kayak, but is so hot our endurance is very poor and we fade fast and cower in the pool.
Before arriving we were told to get out of Puerto Jimanze asap as it was just a dusty hole of a town. We expected the worse, and were happily surprised. Parrots and Macaws hang out in town,butterflies, various other birds singing constantly, and the town itself is reasonabally affluent, meaning people are happy and proud.
Our day trip here with Will, personal guide: Sloths - one mom and babe; Red Poison Dart Frogs, Green/Black Poison Dart Frog, Jesus Christ Lizard (runs on water), Squirrel Monkeys (FYI the very cutest, sweet faced monkeys EVER), and Black Monkeys.
Grilled Tuna: Best ever prepared and cooked to perfection! The weather is extremely hot and our rooms a/c unit is on a 1 hour timer and all night long we have to reset it - every hour! No problem the heat and humidity wakes us within minutes of the a/c shutting down.
QUEPOS & MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK
We start our travel day from P.J. with water tax and all-day bus ride to Quepos. Same ol' story: Very hot and sweaty trip. In Quepos we discover our internet found condo is rented to someone else. We find solice in the nearest restaurant, order cold beer and find another internet shelter. Turns out perfect with a/c and pool which we are in (and remains our refuge throughout our time here) within minutes of arrival. Unfortunately this is a huge tourist destination and prices are terrible, a meal for 2 of us is $20-$30. Save in Panama - go into remorse and debt in Costa Rica! Our Shangri La IS nice so we bite the bullet and stay for 5 days.
We find Wacky Wanda's - a cafe/bar with Polish Chef who prepares wonderful meals, AND pleases us to no end when his stir fries veggies and makes us huge salads - special order! This is one place we get great food and (more) reasonable prices.So with a drink and dinner we get by for $35.
This is very much a typical ex-pat town, with heavy drinking in American/Canadian owned bars, which seems a universal trend, Mexico, South and Central America and South Sea Islands. Not sure if it's boredom or just the social atmosphere. We have tons of fun a couple of nights, especially at the Wednesday night party at Dos Locos Restaurant and Bar, the band which includes a Women Studies Prof from University of Toronto plays a mean base and the 'lead singer' rocks with his guitar playing and singing Santana, Pink Floyd, and others. We totally enjoy meeting some great people including Tug Boat Bobby from Cortez Island, and I find out his wife is a Sherry Freake, A NAME I KNOW FROM LIVING IN GOLDEN 25 YEARS AGO!!! Her home town is Golden! Fun, fun and more fun :).
It is our pleasure to meet a new friend at Manual Antonio, from California - Megan and spend some good hours together at the park, in the pool and out to dinner.... one of the best things about travelling, she expects to visit Vancouver in September!
We take the bus to Manual Antonio pay our $10 each and start our unguided trek through the steamiest damn jungle you can imagine.An hour and a half and 10 lbs. of sweat later we are overheated, tired and pissed because we haven't seen any monkeys etc.We give-in and say "the hell with it,let 'em find us" and sit down to try and find some relief from the heat.Within 10 min. believe it or not they do just that.Not only do they find us but we follow them and before long they lead us to the beach where there are now at least 40 monkeys playing tag napping or just plain running circles around us.From then on we spend the rest of the day mingling with monkeys,sloths,coatis and 1 huge iguana.We swim in the 70 deg. plus water and enjoy the lunch we wisely packed.Then its back to the hotel and the pool.
Tomorrow
April 2 we head for Santa Elena and another cloud forest.We're getting ready to enter Nicaragua within the next 5 days or so.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)