AT DAVID FAIR:  JIMS 'BUNNY COW' ENCOUNTER

MARCH CONTINUES IN PANAMA:  BOCAS DEL TORO, DAVID AND BOQUETE   

A very reasonable drop in condo price from $85/night to $45/night, had us staying another 4 days to help us recover from 1) Jim – terrible sunburn and edema to top of his feet, and 2) Sherry – cough and cold.

Star Fish Beach: a bus full of partying Panamamian women at 9 am, singing and laughing to Panama rock music, drinking beer and otherwise demonstrating the universal fun-bond women have with women!  Urgent stop at ice store to fill their large cooler with ice and more Balboa!   

The 45 minute drive up island took us over narrow winding roads, jungle vines, banana trees, fincas (small farms), the ever present flowering trees, and small homes in various states of comfort – by NA standards sorely lacking tiny one room homes built on stilts (helps stop sandflies and mozzies) to shelter a whole family, windows without glass or window screens, and to all appearances without any of the household conveniences we consider essential. 

Stunningly picture-perfect tropical beach, complete with warm green water, white sand, and of course orange starfish. Magical moments watching 2 dolphins perform just for us.  A local genius/entrepreneur strolls the beach selling cold cervezas? We cannot resist buying -where else can buy cold beer on a remote beach? The other few travelers we spoke to – 3 couples and one small family were CANADIANS!  We are told:  lots of Canucks travel independently in Panama, and when I am no surprise to the locals.  Huddling under palm trees does not prevent  serious sun burn to the top of Jim’s feet, and the next day, he has sunburn edema with painful red burns and very restricted ability to walk. 

PANTEREA (AKA PANTHER)

Travelling between Bocas del Toro to David:  Sighted from a local chicken bus window!!!!  YES both of us observed this amazing animal in very close and at clear range as it crossed the road right in front of us – long, black, sleek and elegant – just as a panther is expected to be.  Sigh. Bliss. We are so lucky.

SLOTHS ….. DOLPINS AND FROGS

Bocas del Toro:  The bragging never ends.  Yep, we were up close and personal with the coveted Sloths!  Thanks to a knowledgeable and helpful Bocas del Toro guide Dwayne, Jim and I had a fantastic day snorkeling, and Dolphin, Sloth, and Poison Dart Red Frog and Yellow-with-Black Spotted Frog (really J) hunting.  We have ‘ a few photos’.  FYI Sloth is Spanish for ‘slow’ and they truly move in slow motion.  Sloths weigh 15 – 30 lbs, have an adorable baby-face with bright round eyes and black nose (think Koala), 3 sharp toes and a long silky-looking coat. They have few predators therefore can afford to relax and enjoy a leisurely existence.

Onward to David: on ever efficient busses –  this being a yellow ex-USA school bus seconded to public transportation, included a plastic-bagged vocal rooster and partner hen.  $1.50, 1 hour later climbed from 50’ below sea level (90+ degrees) the hottest place in Central America to an entirely different landscape at 3,500’, mountainous, very windy (January to April) and gorgeous town of Boquete.  This is yet another Panama to fall head over heels in love with!

NORTH AMERICAN QUETZEL HUNTER/HUNTRESS:

Boquete:  Saturday March 19

WE visually bagged Quetzels after 10 hours trekking through jungle forests, playing in water falls, and swinging on Tarzan Jungle vines (ok that was Jim!) and listening to John, our Personal Quetzel Whistler and Guide.

What’s a Quetzel you ask?  Well this flamboyant show-off bird has been hunted to near extinction for it’s amazing plumage, and is the second rarest bird in the world.  Thrilling to see and learn about Guatamala’s National Bird and monetary namesake.  They have few left, but Panama is proud to show us theirs.  Anything you want to know about a Quetzel?  Just ask because we can (and likely will) go on and on and….  This will start to get a bit old, sorry but once again we are fortunate to have genuinely wonderful people show us their Panama. Little do they know, THEY are the best part of Panama!  John, Rueben, and Patrick are very keen to teach us about the Jungle, Panama, Birds and History and make damn sure we DO see a Quetzel !!!! In fact we watched 2 males and a female for 45 minutes or so.  The tour consisted of 3 guides and 4 guests for $30 each.  Talk about value.

BOQUETE

(not so) Short and sweet:

Our Accommodation (can it get any better?) – is a flower drenched garden 5 – unit townhouse complex, all units are 2 story with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, LR, TV, WiFi and balcony for $60/night! 

January – April: this area is very windy eg 90 kms/hour and we (Sherry) is freezing cold 90% of our visit. Those of you who know Canadian/US thrift stores:  FYI I now know where all those stained, stretched, shrunk, ugly items we see on $1 racks? Well, they show up in places like Boquete for USD $8 - $10! Found this out when I went looking for something warm, cozy and cheap – I was dismayed.

Small town, and stunningly beautiful surroundings with 7 biospheres – terribly proud of it’s pure water and air, wild flowers shamelessly compete with Pine, Eucalyptus, and Palm trees. The area is abundant with gardens, coffee plantations, onions and tomatoes. 

We spent 50% of the time in alternating scorching sun and cloud forest mist on a 14 km loop hike (via a road)  – interesting with constantly changing terrain, seeing river, coffee plantation, forest, mountains, beautiful 1+ acre private landscaped gardens and fincas (farms), dry stacked rock walls/fences, collapsing river bank and bridge (literally under our feet), and indigenous dwellings.  The government spent $30 USD Million to build up and reinforce the river banks after severe flood damage in 2009.

NOTE: The coffee plantations workers are indigenous and earn less than $1.50/hour. FYI  Sherry - Recovering Plantar Faceiitis achieved 14 kms on Thursday, one ‘rest’ day, and then 10 hours of alternating rest (driving, lunch breaks) with hiking on Saturday J. 

Out for dinner one night, we see a Fire BUG (not a Firefly!)!  about ¾ inch long, displaying 2 rear tail lights and s/he was making its way down the sidewalk, flashing pretty bluish-white light. You had to be there….   

OUR LAST 3 DAYS IN PANAMA

We are now in David – jeez talk about FUN. Wait to you read our next update on Feria de David (David Fair) we spent 8 hours there last night.  Lop Eared Bunny Cows, Cow Girls and Guys, Music, Food, Fruit Shakes, Barbque Ribs, Roasted Chicken, (oh right that’s food!) Border Patrol, Vendors selling EVERYTHING.   Let me tell you these people know how to celebrate.  Will do an update next time with more important information!

Leaving early tomorrow (Tuesday) for Volcan, and 2 nights at Los Quetzales Eco Lodge in Guadalupe (yep it is as expensive as it sounds) and in the arms of Parque Internacional La Amistad. 

Heading to Costa Rica ETA Thursday March 24.

Optional Note to Read

From Sherry:   Almost one month in Panama and I already have separation anxiety! This is one of those countries I fall in love with – the people, language, diversity, scenery, and spirit!  So Panama will join the esteemed ranks of Bali, Australia, and Ecuador.