still wanderin'
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Monday, March 21, 2011
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| AT DAVID FAIR: JIMS 'BUNNY COW' ENCOUNTER |
A very reasonable drop in condo price from $85/night to $45/night, had us staying another 4 days to help us recover from 1) Jim – terrible sunburn and edema to top of his feet, and 2) Sherry – cough and cold.
Star Fish Beach: a bus full of partying Panamamian women at 9 am, singing and laughing to Panama rock music, drinking beer and otherwise demonstrating the universal fun-bond women have with women! Urgent stop at ice store to fill their large cooler with ice and more Balboa!
The 45 minute drive up island took us over narrow winding roads, jungle vines, banana trees, fincas (small farms), the ever present flowering trees, and small homes in various states of comfort – by NA standards sorely lacking tiny one room homes built on stilts (helps stop sandflies and mozzies) to shelter a whole family, windows without glass or window screens, and to all appearances without any of the household conveniences we consider essential.
Stunningly picture-perfect tropical beach, complete with warm green water, white sand, and of course orange starfish. Magical moments watching 2 dolphins perform just for us. A local genius/entrepreneur strolls the beach selling cold cervezas? We cannot resist buying -where else can buy cold beer on a remote beach? The other few travelers we spoke to – 3 couples and one small family were CANADIANS! We are told: lots of Canucks travel independently in Panama, and when I am no surprise to the locals. Huddling under palm trees does not prevent serious sun burn to the top of Jim’s feet, and the next day, he has sunburn edema with painful red burns and very restricted ability to walk.
PANTEREA (AKA PANTHER)
Travelling between Bocas del Toro to David: Sighted from a local chicken bus window!!!! YES both of us observed this amazing animal in very close and at clear range as it crossed the road right in front of us – long, black, sleek and elegant – just as a panther is expected to be. Sigh. Bliss. We are so lucky.
SLOTHS ….. DOLPINS AND FROGS
Bocas del Toro: The bragging never ends. Yep, we were up close and personal with the coveted Sloths! Thanks to a knowledgeable and helpful Bocas del Toro guide Dwayne, Jim and I had a fantastic day snorkeling, and Dolphin, Sloth, and Poison Dart Red Frog and Yellow-with-Black Spotted Frog (really J) hunting. We have ‘ a few photos’. FYI Sloth is Spanish for ‘slow’ and they truly move in slow motion. Sloths weigh 15 – 30 lbs, have an adorable baby-face with bright round eyes and black nose (think Koala), 3 sharp toes and a long silky-looking coat. They have few predators therefore can afford to relax and enjoy a leisurely existence.
Onward to David: on ever efficient busses – this being a yellow ex-USA school bus seconded to public transportation, included a plastic-bagged vocal rooster and partner hen. $1.50, 1 hour later climbed from 50’ below sea level (90+ degrees) the hottest place in Central America to an entirely different landscape at 3,500’, mountainous, very windy (January to April) and gorgeous town of Boquete. This is yet another Panama to fall head over heels in love with!
NORTH AMERICAN QUETZEL HUNTER/HUNTRESS:
Boquete: Saturday March 19
WE visually bagged Quetzels after 10 hours trekking through jungle forests, playing in water falls, and swinging on Tarzan Jungle vines (ok that was Jim!) and listening to John, our Personal Quetzel Whistler and Guide.
What’s a Quetzel you ask? Well this flamboyant show-off bird has been hunted to near extinction for it’s amazing plumage, and is the second rarest bird in the world. Thrilling to see and learn about Guatamala’s National Bird and monetary namesake. They have few left, but Panama is proud to show us theirs. Anything you want to know about a Quetzel? Just ask because we can (and likely will) go on and on and…. This will start to get a bit old, sorry but once again we are fortunate to have genuinely wonderful people show us their Panama. Little do they know, THEY are the best part of Panama! John, Rueben, and Patrick are very keen to teach us about the Jungle, Panama, Birds and History and make damn sure we DO see a Quetzel !!!! In fact we watched 2 males and a female for 45 minutes or so. The tour consisted of 3 guides and 4 guests for $30 each. Talk about value.
BOQUETE
(not so) Short and sweet:
Our Accommodation (can it get any better?) – is a flower drenched garden 5 – unit townhouse complex, all units are 2 story with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, LR, TV, WiFi and balcony for $60/night!
January – April: this area is very windy eg 90 kms/hour and we (Sherry) is freezing cold 90% of our visit. Those of you who know Canadian/US thrift stores: FYI I now know where all those stained, stretched, shrunk, ugly items we see on $1 racks? Well, they show up in places like Boquete for USD $8 - $10! Found this out when I went looking for something warm, cozy and cheap – I was dismayed.
Small town, and stunningly beautiful surroundings with 7 biospheres – terribly proud of it’s pure water and air, wild flowers shamelessly compete with Pine, Eucalyptus, and Palm trees. The area is abundant with gardens, coffee plantations, onions and tomatoes.
We spent 50% of the time in alternating scorching sun and cloud forest mist on a 14 km loop hike (via a road) – interesting with constantly changing terrain, seeing river, coffee plantation, forest, mountains, beautiful 1+ acre private landscaped gardens and fincas (farms), dry stacked rock walls/fences, collapsing river bank and bridge (literally under our feet), and indigenous dwellings. The government spent $30 USD Million to build up and reinforce the river banks after severe flood damage in 2009.
NOTE: The coffee plantations workers are indigenous and earn less than $1.50/hour. FYI Sherry - Recovering Plantar Faceiitis achieved 14 kms on Thursday, one ‘rest’ day, and then 10 hours of alternating rest (driving, lunch breaks) with hiking on Saturday J.
Out for dinner one night, we see a Fire BUG (not a Firefly!)! about ¾ inch long, displaying 2 rear tail lights and s/he was making its way down the sidewalk, flashing pretty bluish-white light. You had to be there….
OUR LAST 3 DAYS IN PANAMA
We are now in David – jeez talk about FUN. Wait to you read our next update on Feria de David (David Fair) we spent 8 hours there last night. Lop Eared Bunny Cows, Cow Girls and Guys, Music, Food, Fruit Shakes, Barbque Ribs, Roasted Chicken, (oh right that’s food!) Border Patrol, Vendors selling EVERYTHING. Let me tell you these people know how to celebrate. Will do an update next time with more important information!
Leaving early tomorrow (Tuesday) for Volcan, and 2 nights at Los Quetzales Eco Lodge in Guadalupe (yep it is as expensive as it sounds) and in the arms of Parque Internacional La Amistad.
Heading to Costa Rica ETA Thursday March 24.
Optional Note to Read
From Sherry: Almost one month in Panama and I already have separation anxiety! This is one of those countries I fall in love with – the people, language, diversity, scenery, and spirit! So Panama will join the esteemed ranks of Bali, Australia, and Ecuador.
Friday, March 11, 2011
March 10 Blog Catch Up Time
Memorable Events
David to Bocus Del Toro Bus ride:
Little did we understand Friday March 4 was a holiday day for Panamanians! Bus station breakfast: large fluffy pancake for .80! 8 am and the 2 hour line up for a bus was absolutely a gem: Oh the sights to be seen! Mini busses were running fast and furious - jostling, pushing, squeezing big and small people, animals, ice chests, large plastic bags, ice coolers, copious boxes of Panama, Atlas and Balbou beer... compliant dogs tied into large plastic bags - heads with bright, soft eyes and ears at half mast - obviously experienced in the ways of travel. Chickens trussed up in tidy packages ready for the journey... To our astonishment the dogs are secured to the top of the bus, wedged in among bags, boxs and luggage, our wheely beasts, heads sticking up to ride the wind. They safely arrive at their destination and we are grateful and relieved!
This is Chiriqui Province - a favored destination for North American travellers and expats. The 4.5 hour trip to Bocas del Toro Province was magical and stunningly beautiful: banana groves, jungle vines, yellow, red and pink flowering shrubs and trees, rolling hills and farms with lop-eared bunny/cows (we are frantic to get a photo, love 'em!), and miles of valley vistas . The Fortuna Road pushes our heavily overloaded bus over a steep mountain pass, stops to gasp and wheez at Lago Fortuna long enough to buy fresh pineapple chunks from bus window venders before scooting quickly down to the turquoise Carribean sea and depressing town of Almirante - ramshackle dwellings with garbage, and toilets littering the ocean front.
A 45 minute water taxi delivers us into the chaos of Bocas del Toros Carnival, and the comforting arms of our $85 air-con, private bathroom, kitchette, studio suite condo!!!!! We know this will push the limits of our budget and we bask in the glory of it!
CARNIVAL
4 Days of constant 20 -24 hour music and beer, dancing devils and grilled chicken and chirizo kabobs. All of this comes to a righteous conclusion Monday to Tuesday night with:
- Carnival Princesses have the dubious honor of Dirty Dancing with the Devils on stage in front of anyone who can wade through the stench of beer and empty beer cans of Central Avenue - in the 90+ degree heat and 90% humidity.
- The first 4 days are dominated by about 40 red or black costumed devils, with full custom head dress harrassing any non-devil with snapping and whistling whips. They are frequently endearing and very funny, occasionally intimidating and hurting those who give them grief. The general rule appears to be: whip from the knee down; unfortunately there is often many errant lashing, e.g one devil sustained a 6 inch upper chest wound; it is not uncommon to see men with whip welts or open cuts bleeding, and men bearing scars from previous years.
- To the delight of the crowd and Jim's surprise and chagrine, a black attired devil leaped on his back attempting to ride piggy back style while doing a full shimmy with all four limbs - even more surprising Sherry was so astonished she never even got a photo!
- Monday night: Brilliantly Sequined and Feathered Carnival costumes adorn the four pretty young women selected as Carnival Princesses - an honor requiring them to regally tetter and dance on outragious high heels whilst riding a float through the plastered carnival crowd. They are delivered onto the stage where they once again get to dance to the crowd, this time with extra large mulitcoloured confetti showered on them produced by .....a special confetti making machine!
- Fireworks to rival Vancouver's International Fireworks competition, the crowd responds with resounding cheers and singing of viva la Panama!
Tuesday - Day of Reckoning for the Devils misdeeds
6 - 9 pm: 'Non Devils' of young teenaged and adult males are armed with various whips now take on the Devils. In a showdown reminisent of a Clint Eastwood movie, the total four blocks of Central Avenue features the Non-devils at one end, and the Devils far at the opposite. With challenging taunts the Non Devils charge The Devils - these first skirmishes last for 1 - 2 minutes and have several groups of 2 - 3 Devils ganging up on one tougher Non - Devil. Although the action is basically contained on the street, the event is audience participation, as you must always be alert to the the action rapidly changing with devils and non devils moving the squimish into the crowd. After an hour or so, the tide turns when Non-Devils start to overcome the Devils, they isolate and lasso them one at a time, drag them over to the 'good; Non-Devil side. This captured Devil now has to run a gauntet of Non-Devils and other members of the population (including some women and younger children), all with whips and a distance of 1 - 2 blocks. Satan runs as fast as possble, leaping in an attempt to minimze whip contact and running until out of sight.
We are grateful to have Dwane, a follow Canadian share his video clips with us as the whole event was simply unbelievable - it's very difficult to describe with the sheer number of participants, the whipping skills, the sound of whips snapping and cracking, music (of course) playing, and the chaos and excitment of the crowd.
Memorable Events
David to Bocus Del Toro Bus ride:
Little did we understand Friday March 4 was a holiday day for Panamanians! Bus station breakfast: large fluffy pancake for .80! 8 am and the 2 hour line up for a bus was absolutely a gem: Oh the sights to be seen! Mini busses were running fast and furious - jostling, pushing, squeezing big and small people, animals, ice chests, large plastic bags, ice coolers, copious boxes of Panama, Atlas and Balbou beer... compliant dogs tied into large plastic bags - heads with bright, soft eyes and ears at half mast - obviously experienced in the ways of travel. Chickens trussed up in tidy packages ready for the journey... To our astonishment the dogs are secured to the top of the bus, wedged in among bags, boxs and luggage, our wheely beasts, heads sticking up to ride the wind. They safely arrive at their destination and we are grateful and relieved!
This is Chiriqui Province - a favored destination for North American travellers and expats. The 4.5 hour trip to Bocas del Toro Province was magical and stunningly beautiful: banana groves, jungle vines, yellow, red and pink flowering shrubs and trees, rolling hills and farms with lop-eared bunny/cows (we are frantic to get a photo, love 'em!), and miles of valley vistas . The Fortuna Road pushes our heavily overloaded bus over a steep mountain pass, stops to gasp and wheez at Lago Fortuna long enough to buy fresh pineapple chunks from bus window venders before scooting quickly down to the turquoise Carribean sea and depressing town of Almirante - ramshackle dwellings with garbage, and toilets littering the ocean front.
A 45 minute water taxi delivers us into the chaos of Bocas del Toros Carnival, and the comforting arms of our $85 air-con, private bathroom, kitchette, studio suite condo!!!!! We know this will push the limits of our budget and we bask in the glory of it!
CARNIVAL
4 Days of constant 20 -24 hour music and beer, dancing devils and grilled chicken and chirizo kabobs. All of this comes to a righteous conclusion Monday to Tuesday night with:
- Carnival Princesses have the dubious honor of Dirty Dancing with the Devils on stage in front of anyone who can wade through the stench of beer and empty beer cans of Central Avenue - in the 90+ degree heat and 90% humidity.
- The first 4 days are dominated by about 40 red or black costumed devils, with full custom head dress harrassing any non-devil with snapping and whistling whips. They are frequently endearing and very funny, occasionally intimidating and hurting those who give them grief. The general rule appears to be: whip from the knee down; unfortunately there is often many errant lashing, e.g one devil sustained a 6 inch upper chest wound; it is not uncommon to see men with whip welts or open cuts bleeding, and men bearing scars from previous years.
- To the delight of the crowd and Jim's surprise and chagrine, a black attired devil leaped on his back attempting to ride piggy back style while doing a full shimmy with all four limbs - even more surprising Sherry was so astonished she never even got a photo!
- Monday night: Brilliantly Sequined and Feathered Carnival costumes adorn the four pretty young women selected as Carnival Princesses - an honor requiring them to regally tetter and dance on outragious high heels whilst riding a float through the plastered carnival crowd. They are delivered onto the stage where they once again get to dance to the crowd, this time with extra large mulitcoloured confetti showered on them produced by .....a special confetti making machine!
- Fireworks to rival Vancouver's International Fireworks competition, the crowd responds with resounding cheers and singing of viva la Panama!
Tuesday - Day of Reckoning for the Devils misdeeds
6 - 9 pm: 'Non Devils' of young teenaged and adult males are armed with various whips now take on the Devils. In a showdown reminisent of a Clint Eastwood movie, the total four blocks of Central Avenue features the Non-devils at one end, and the Devils far at the opposite. With challenging taunts the Non Devils charge The Devils - these first skirmishes last for 1 - 2 minutes and have several groups of 2 - 3 Devils ganging up on one tougher Non - Devil. Although the action is basically contained on the street, the event is audience participation, as you must always be alert to the the action rapidly changing with devils and non devils moving the squimish into the crowd. After an hour or so, the tide turns when Non-Devils start to overcome the Devils, they isolate and lasso them one at a time, drag them over to the 'good; Non-Devil side. This captured Devil now has to run a gauntet of Non-Devils and other members of the population (including some women and younger children), all with whips and a distance of 1 - 2 blocks. Satan runs as fast as possble, leaping in an attempt to minimze whip contact and running until out of sight.
We are grateful to have Dwane, a follow Canadian share his video clips with us as the whole event was simply unbelievable - it's very difficult to describe with the sheer number of participants, the whipping skills, the sound of whips snapping and cracking, music (of course) playing, and the chaos and excitment of the crowd.
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Friday Feb. 25 - to Mira Flores Locks, Panama Canal. Hypnotized with watching ships squeeze through the narrow canal, pulled by minature locomotives (AKA donkeys). Toured the Air Con 3 story museum (thank God). Sitting to catch return bus it POURED!! 90 deg. F and absolutely pouring rain -grateful the bus stop was covered. Drive-by fans? admirers? smiled, honked and waved to us. Perhaps most travellers take tour buses.
Wandered up and down 2 kms Central Ave. for safety reasons not after dark though, solid with street vendors and pedistrian traffic only. That means every Panamanian within 20 miles (plus 1 Canadian and 1 American). Two foot police told Sherry to put her camera around her neck (against thieves) then decided to be our personal escourts going as far as taking us to a seedy restaurant...with pretty good cheap food and showing us how to order.Spent the evening touring a safer area.
Saturday 25th Toured Panama Viejos - original city ruins (400+ years old). Found refuge under enormous, thick tropical trees for the daily afternoon downpours and watched wild parrots flying, squacking and complaining about wet feathers...we think. A Saturday Night celebration and break from our 'budget' - taxi to Casco Viejo, (another) old section of town with ancient and ornate French architecture in various states of restoration-or not. The President resides here and police presence is everywhere, usually standing on street cornersor or zipping (?) around in golf carts on narrow cobblestone streets. Our night out: dinner and to a tavern with a live, quite good, rock band. Strangely, nobody danced. This drove Sherry nuts so we went 'home' by 12.
Sunday 26th Research day for reservations Mar 5 - 8 Panama Carnival time. What a challenge, Louis must have called 8 hotels on our behalf. Bless Deb 'wonder woman' and extraordinary research friend for helping from Canada. The Internet 'connection' was terrible and repeatedly kicked us off every 20 - 30 minutes. Back to Casco Viejo for dinner-again, excellent Italian restaurant for 1/2 the cost of previous night.
Monday 27th had 'scheduled' as departure day. In a sick and disturbing way we feel attached to this seedy area of town. We agree to ONE more day. Exhausting research continues (you think this is just fun ha). Chicken dinner on hotel Rooftop Mezzanine overlooking downtown Panama city lights and chaotic action below us, of our local streets. Romantic, excluded and safe. we know, wierd.
Final Thoughts :
Adjusting to our new surroundings was... an adjustement. Our location is somewhat difficult to describe. Lets see...here are some of my impressions during our stay:
- We spotted 4 other travellers - as rare as a Spotted Owl, and scurrying quickly in an effort to escape Central Aveneda and Calle B.
- Desk Clerk and Police Officer ensured we understood safety issues....thoroughly :)
- Web Travel Advisory: 3 blocks from us- presence of 5 youth gangs.. with firearms, seemed the author relocated rather quickly
- 24 hours: honking cars, taxi's and busses; NIGHT TIME: firecrackers (I perfer this as opposed to Jim's alternative...gunshots!), music, talking, yelling, dogs barking
- Buskers selling literally everything on the street - Pineapple 3 for $1, grilled burger with all the fixings $1, clothes so cheap it's hard to believe - trendy looking skin tight jeans 2.99 I controlled a brief impluse to buy and squeeze into a pair.
- Rojo Diablos - 'Red Devils' Panama Cities unique city busses: artistry on hood, roof, and all around'; flashing neon lights on the flamboyant. I have never seen anything like it! Very Fun.
- This place is mesmerizing, every excursion another opportunity to gawk and try to capture the spirit on the street with my camera - a frustrating goal
- Louis, Nightime Desk Clerk - couldn't ask for a more enthusistic travel assistant, with our evening chats he helped us understand his Panama
- clean countryside, glaring difference between Guatamala and Hondouras, and here.
- People: very friendly; weak and pathetic attempts to communcate in Espanol is greeted with warmth and appreciation
Tuesday 28th Bus to Santiago (4 hrs. $7.50) a mini bus (1.5 hrs.) to Santa Fe - seats 20 but carrying 30. Much to our dislike and embarressment the 'barker' moved several indeigines people so we could sit. We protested to no avail. Expats here tell us this is the norm, this society has a chaste system and they are at the bottom. The Wheelie Beasts were tossed on the roof to fend for themselves in the rain....like us, they're becoming survivors.
JIM'S First Hostel experience (without bathroom)
A bamboo-walled hostel, shared bathroom much to Jim's dismay. Very poor sleep, could hear the neighour next door breathing, many barking dogs and awoke (very early) to the sounds of even more roosters. We were outta there by 11 am. and are now in another hostel a few blocks away, a hangout for American and Canadian expats who have moved to this isolated village of 3000. Forty years ago the only access was by airplane, we have no idea where it landed as this area is nothing but beautiful hillls and valleys with rivers and waterfalls....and of course lots of dogs, roosters and other noise making animals.
Wandered up and down 2 kms Central Ave. for safety reasons not after dark though, solid with street vendors and pedistrian traffic only. That means every Panamanian within 20 miles (plus 1 Canadian and 1 American). Two foot police told Sherry to put her camera around her neck (against thieves) then decided to be our personal escourts going as far as taking us to a seedy restaurant...with pretty good cheap food and showing us how to order.Spent the evening touring a safer area.
Saturday 25th Toured Panama Viejos - original city ruins (400+ years old). Found refuge under enormous, thick tropical trees for the daily afternoon downpours and watched wild parrots flying, squacking and complaining about wet feathers...we think. A Saturday Night celebration and break from our 'budget' - taxi to Casco Viejo, (another) old section of town with ancient and ornate French architecture in various states of restoration-or not. The President resides here and police presence is everywhere, usually standing on street cornersor or zipping (?) around in golf carts on narrow cobblestone streets. Our night out: dinner and to a tavern with a live, quite good, rock band. Strangely, nobody danced. This drove Sherry nuts so we went 'home' by 12.
Sunday 26th Research day for reservations Mar 5 - 8 Panama Carnival time. What a challenge, Louis must have called 8 hotels on our behalf. Bless Deb 'wonder woman' and extraordinary research friend for helping from Canada. The Internet 'connection' was terrible and repeatedly kicked us off every 20 - 30 minutes. Back to Casco Viejo for dinner-again, excellent Italian restaurant for 1/2 the cost of previous night.
Monday 27th had 'scheduled' as departure day. In a sick and disturbing way we feel attached to this seedy area of town. We agree to ONE more day. Exhausting research continues (you think this is just fun ha). Chicken dinner on hotel Rooftop Mezzanine overlooking downtown Panama city lights and chaotic action below us, of our local streets. Romantic, excluded and safe. we know, wierd.
Final Thoughts :
Adjusting to our new surroundings was... an adjustement. Our location is somewhat difficult to describe. Lets see...here are some of my impressions during our stay:
- We spotted 4 other travellers - as rare as a Spotted Owl, and scurrying quickly in an effort to escape Central Aveneda and Calle B.
- Desk Clerk and Police Officer ensured we understood safety issues....thoroughly :)
- Web Travel Advisory: 3 blocks from us- presence of 5 youth gangs.. with firearms, seemed the author relocated rather quickly
- 24 hours: honking cars, taxi's and busses; NIGHT TIME: firecrackers (I perfer this as opposed to Jim's alternative...gunshots!), music, talking, yelling, dogs barking
- Buskers selling literally everything on the street - Pineapple 3 for $1, grilled burger with all the fixings $1, clothes so cheap it's hard to believe - trendy looking skin tight jeans 2.99 I controlled a brief impluse to buy and squeeze into a pair.
- Rojo Diablos - 'Red Devils' Panama Cities unique city busses: artistry on hood, roof, and all around'; flashing neon lights on the flamboyant. I have never seen anything like it! Very Fun.
- This place is mesmerizing, every excursion another opportunity to gawk and try to capture the spirit on the street with my camera - a frustrating goal
- Louis, Nightime Desk Clerk - couldn't ask for a more enthusistic travel assistant, with our evening chats he helped us understand his Panama
- clean countryside, glaring difference between Guatamala and Hondouras, and here.
- People: very friendly; weak and pathetic attempts to communcate in Espanol is greeted with warmth and appreciation
Tuesday 28th Bus to Santiago (4 hrs. $7.50) a mini bus (1.5 hrs.) to Santa Fe - seats 20 but carrying 30. Much to our dislike and embarressment the 'barker' moved several indeigines people so we could sit. We protested to no avail. Expats here tell us this is the norm, this society has a chaste system and they are at the bottom. The Wheelie Beasts were tossed on the roof to fend for themselves in the rain....like us, they're becoming survivors.
JIM'S First Hostel experience (without bathroom)
A bamboo-walled hostel, shared bathroom much to Jim's dismay. Very poor sleep, could hear the neighour next door breathing, many barking dogs and awoke (very early) to the sounds of even more roosters. We were outta there by 11 am. and are now in another hostel a few blocks away, a hangout for American and Canadian expats who have moved to this isolated village of 3000. Forty years ago the only access was by airplane, we have no idea where it landed as this area is nothing but beautiful hillls and valleys with rivers and waterfalls....and of course lots of dogs, roosters and other noise making animals.
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